Original Brown Paper Floor Tutorial: A DIY Alternative to Wood Floors
Welcome to one of our most popular DIY’s at AOC! This unique brown paper floor technique has been pinned and viewed on YouTube more than a million times and was even featured in an issue of Cottages and Bungalows! It’s a doable DIY that anyone can do and results in a leather-look flooring that lasts a surprisingly long time.
Below you’ll find a bit more about the technique, the video tutorial we made that shows all the steps needed to create this floor using brown kraft paper and glue, and a supplies list.
Some links in this article are affiliate links and if you click on them and purchase I will receive a small commission at no cost to you.
UPDATE: Check out the definitive FAQ for the Paper Floor Technique where we answer all the many questions we get about this cool brown paper floor solution to nasty carpet!
UPDATE #2: See our Brown Paper Floor Follow Up: How Do They Look 4 Years Later? video.
Wondering what the heck a paper floor is and if it’s really doable? It is a really cool, unique flooring method (which is basically decoupage) that I first created in our first house, a 1940 Portland bungalow.
We applied it to the stairs going up to a half story and all the floors in the upstairs, both an office and guest room-studio. I thought it would be temporary, but we were shocked how well it lasted, even on the stairs, and how much we liked it. We had no problem selling the house 5 years after laying for flooring – and the new owners thought it was really cool!
After moving to our 1980’s ranch, we knew we’d use the floor again to get rid of the old carpet, which we did for both our son’s room makeover and our daughter’s recent room makeover.
It’s been such a great alternative to expensive wood floors, creating a cool leather look while still giving the feel (decor wise) and easy upkeep of wood.
What’s wrong with carpet?
Brian and I are unanimous in our love of wood flooring and our hatred disgust dislike of carpet. Bear with me a minute as I get on a little soap box about wall-to-wall carpet.
Carpet is:
- expensive
- not an easy DIY project (more money for labor)
- hard to clean (pets? children?…hello?)
- “filter is full after 5 years” (exact quote from a carpet professional- translation: there’s no amount of cleaning that’s going to get it clean)
- dusty, dirty edges even with regular vacuuming
- an unchangeable color
- not great for certain allergies
- and, since we moved rurally, shows all of the dirt, mud and other dark things that routinely come in on people’s shoes…
OK, I’m down from the box and obviously you can guess where we stand. And while I know plenty of people who love their wall-to-wall, this video tutorial is for those like us who’d like to get rid of it, either because you can’t afford new or because you, too, don’t like carpet.
Needless to say, we are slowly getting rid of all the carpet that came in our ranch-turned-cottage and we are down to two rooms left: the master bedroom and the sunken living room. They will probably get some sort of wood, but for the kid’s rooms, we used this decoupage torn-paper technique we’re sharing with you that we’d used in our Portland bungalow with great success.
Wait? Really, a paper floor?
Yes! We love the doable DIY aspect of this as well as the look and the cost. It is easy, inexpensive and creates a (sort of) leather-look with minimal effort.
Does it last?
It’s coated with water based polyurethane so it has worn really well in the rooms we’ve used it, although I wouldn’t recommend it for high traffic areas.
How much does it cost?
How inexpensive is it? A 12′ x 11′ room cost just $65 total, or about .50 a square foot, which is actually amazing for new flooring.
Brown Paper Floor
Here’s what it looks like in our daughter’s room:
I love seeing this from the hallway now instead of the brown, stained carpeting. It looks a lot airier, too, and makes the room seem bigger.
Now we can get any color of carpeting we like and when it’s old and stained we can just buy a new one (and since this was just $25, it’s not a huge investment).
Here you can better see what the floor looks like. The pieces of torn kraft paper all came from the same roll, but they dry light and dark (I don’t know why), which I think creates a more interesting look than if it was all one color.
You can also see more of the finished floor in this follow up video.
Brown Paper Floor Tutorial Video
Interested in replicating this flooring option in your house? This tutorial video shows you all the steps and tools you’ll need, plus I’ve created a list of tools and supplies after the video:
Brown Paper Floor Supplies
Floor Preparation
- Wood filler for any gaps or holes in subfloor.Ā
- Sanding paper for rough areas and edges.
Applying The Paper
Brown “Builder’s Paper” – the 140-foot roll covered a 12×11′ bedroom and a 11×11′ for us:
- Amazon: Easy Mask 35-inch x 140-feet Brown Builders PaperĀ
- Home Depot (where we get ours): Trimaco Easy Mask 2.9-ft x 140-ft Builder’s Paper
Gallon Size Glue – one gallon covers a 11’x11′ or 12′ room:
Other Tools:
- Small bucket and stir stick
- 3-inch paint brush
- scissors
- trash can
- container to hold water
Optional Staining
This step isn’t in the video, but would happen after the glue dries but before you apply the polyurethane. See FAQs for more on staining; note that I don’t recommend oil based stains like the examples since everything else is water based:
Water based stain in a color you’d like. Here are two options:
Application:
- 9-inch pad applicator (to work with an extension pole)
- For edges use disposable chip brushes or 2-inch foam brushes
- Disposable glovesĀ
Polyurethane Coating The Paper Floor
Floor Grade Water Based Polyurethane – 1 gallon for a 10×10′ to 10×12′ room will give about 5 coats:
- Amazon: Minwax Polycrylic Water-Based Protective Clear Finish, Satin, or Varathane brand for floors in a single pack
- Home Depot: Varathane Satin Water-Based Floor Polyurethane (pack of 2)
To apply poly with a brush like I show in the video:
- 4-inch brush (attached with duct tape to a long PVC pipe pole)
To apply poly with a painter pad on a pole:
To apply poly with a roller (use only foam to minimize shedding and bubbles – these weren’t available when I first did the floors):
- 9-inch foam roller (attach to a roller with an extension pole)
- Extension Pole
Paper Floor Testimonials
Kee Kee 1/2019
Anyway, thank you sooooo much for sharing this flooring with the world. I am absolutely in love with the look, low maintenance, durability, and cleanliness of it. When we pulled up the Lumber Liquidators laminate flooring, I was absolutely disgusted by the what was underneath. The mildew and whatnot that was able to get through the crevices and fester. Yuck. The seamlessness of this flooring means I never have to worry about that. Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Dee 5/2019
I did this technique about 13 years ago in a bathroom – still holding up Havenāt even needed to repoly. Insane
I added stain to my glue mix and I also did over vinyl . No problems . I did small pieces of paper , crinkled . Love It 13years!!! poly poly poly poly ! It looks amazing! And it is a heavily traffic area – our laundry in there also. Simply amazing.
Please let us know if you use the technique- we’d love to hear (and see!) how it turned out for you!
This tutorial has been updated – it was originally published in August of 2010.
Disclosure: affiliate links in this article will earn commission based on sales, but it doesn’t change your price. Click here to read my full disclaimer and advertising disclosure.
Just recently discovered you tube and found many videos to learn different things I can do on with brown paper as have been working with the paper for many years. I hane a suggestion that is more work but worth it. I use several glazes to paint the paper and dry. Tear the paper and put in water, let it get good and wet then wipe off excess, paint the glue on and lay on floor, with a rag smooth out wrinkles and you will get a flat surface. Let dry thoroughly and seal. …I started out doing vases, walls, have a secret ingredient instead of wallpaper paste that can easily be removed and will not damage your walls. For that reason I do not seal it and has been on the walls for many years. Will send pictures if I can figure out how to. Maybe you can help. You might try this on samples first. Let me know, anyone who reads this at sharonh202@aol.com, please post in the heading re paper as delete if I think it is junk mail. Sharon
should I use the sealer like you used in a bathroom? or should I use one that takes longer to cure? Thanks
I haven’t done this technique in a bathroom, Hollie, but I’ve heard from a couple of readers who have. The water-based poly will seal just as well as an oil and won’t leave the greased spots that oil-based can. I would only ever use water-based.
Do you think fabric would work as well?
I’ve never tried it, though in crafting, decoupaging fabric creates a texture – and I remember the edges would fray…so I guess I don’t know. š My suggestion would be to try it on a piece of plywood or something.
nevermind jami don’t post my question…i got what i needed from your faqs š
Thanks for the tutorial! Could I do this in my tiny bathroom? Would you recommend oil-based poly for a bathroom or kitchen instead of the water-based that you use? Both my kitchen and bath need help, and they are so small that I wouldn’t mind ‘fixing’ spots as they wear…I was just worried about water, especially in the bathroom, softening huge areas etc. Do you know a solution?
Can I do this over concert floors?
Please refer to the FAQ page referenced at the beginning of the post for a detailed answer to this and many other questions about this flooring technique!
Hi, Jami! I used this same technique on my entry stairs and it completely transformed the space. The stairs were previously covered in carpet but I knew I wanted them to be wood with a runner. However, hubby was not thrilled with replacing the treads, possibly the risers, and for sure the balusters so I had to find something to do to the existing stairs.
Hop over to my website to take a look at the transformation that ended up being under $150!!!! Soooo excited : )
http://livingquartersonadime.blogspot.com/
I linked your page to it as well, thanks for the help!
Great job! Your stairs (and stairwell) look fantastic!
Thank you! I have received countless compliments on them and I am very pleased with the way they turned out. Your video was extremely helpful!
Keep up the good work : )
Wha-hoo! So glad to hear – thanks!
Can you apply poly with roller? if so which roller would you use?
Hi there! You can find the answer to this, plus many more question on the FAQ For Brown Paper Floor page linked at the top of the post. Hope that helps-
Thanks for responding so quickly, Jami! We used RustOleum. It says “clear gloss” so I wonder if that’s where we went wrong. This is the second day since we applied the poly, and the wrinkles are already relaxing and I’m definitely happier with it (although we can still practically see our reflection in the floors!) Will definitely try the varathane next time! Thanks so much!
Oh, that’s it- the clear gloss finish is always shiny and ‘wet’ looking. You’re OK with the brand – doesn’t matter if it’s RustOleum or Varathane – just make sure to get the satin finish.
So glad you’re happy with the results – SO much nicer than nasty flooring, huh? š
Hello! I found your video when I was searching for creative things to do on top of subfloor, and I LOOOVE this technique! We applied it in my kids room last week and I LOVED the look of it… until we did the polyurethane. š
Before, it looked like a beautifully textured floor. Now, it looks like wet, wrinkly paper. I know you mentioned that the wrinkles should come out, but I was wondering about the poly shine that makes it look wet. Is there a brand of poly that you recommend? We’re thinking about doing this in our other two bedrooms (even a shiny wet paper floor is better than the alternative!) and I’d like to make sure we do it right, this time!
Thanks!
Hey there, RinaMarie! I’m glad you tried the technique – I hope your wrinkles will continue to relax, as mine did.
As for poly, we use the Varathane brand and always get the satin finish. We’ve not noticed a “wet” look when using the satin finish. What finish did you use?
Hi there –
Wanted to thank you for your video. We referenced it while doing our bedroom floor about 6 months ago. I just blogged about it here:
http://momsyurt.blogspot.com/2012/05/kraft-paper-floors.html.
We did plank style strips of brown kraft paper, stained it, and we love it.
Your right about the paper size because when I started I used smaller pieces and by the time I finished I found myself using much larger pieces. I am so not giving up just yet though! After I posted my comment I happened upon your “floor failure” blog (as I remembered it being mentioned in the video) and it made me feel so much better! My floor looks just like that so I’m waiting two weeks before tearing it up. And I am going to do it again! Yes I am a determined woman lol! I’m remodeling an entire kitchen (500 sq ft) for less than a grand is my goal, just for fun! I’m calling it my faux kitchen complete with painted countertops (to look like granite), paper flooring, painted “tile” look linoleum and faux glazed maple cabinets. So far the cabinets look amazing, thank you for your blog I LOVE IT!
I’m sad :(. I did this in my 200 square foot dining room after watching your video literally ten times! Anyway it is a complete failure. I did everything exactly as the video showed and the only thing I can think of is maybe I didn’t press down enough when gluing the paper. Even though I really thought I did? It’s been almost a week and four coats of polyurethane and it’s wrinkled terribly! Any advice Jamie?
Ugh! So sorry you are sad about this. First off- don’t give up yet. Wait a couple more weeks and see if the wrinkles disappear – that’s what happened to me when I did our son’s room. I even wrote a post here called “Floor Failure” and then had to retract my words later! Go ahead and read it for encouragement. š What was your subfloor? I think pressboard (what ours is) takes longer to fully dry than plywood.
Second, I have found there are less wrinkles when I use smaller pieces of paper. But then it takes longer…
My fingers are crossed for you!
Love this idea – just wondering if you have ever tried cutting the craft paper into strips much like wood floor planks and putting it on the floor similiar to a wood floor application in appearance?
Check out the FAQ I linked to at the top of the post- this question is answered there! š
I’m in the thick of a home remodel and already tore out the hideous carpet in our master bedroom. I’ve had several ideas about alternatives to traditional flooring but love your approach. I did a proof of concept test in the window ledge/alcove and my family is so impressed I got the green light to do more…however…the subflooring isn’t remotely flat and has soft (weak) spots. I’m about to tackle that, and thought I’d relay another useful website I found for others in my situation. It involves putting down an additional layer of plywood (blah), but the floor will be flat and if I do it correctly, quieter for those downstairs (I plan on adding an underlayment, like when putting down wood floors upstairs): http://www.oneprojectcloser.com/how-to-level-a-plywood-or-osb-subfloor-using-asphalt-shingles-construction-felt/
If it looks and works half as good as the alcove, I’ll be happy. Thanks for your blog! -Clayton
Glad your family is letting you proceed, Clayton. š Thanks for the idea and link about fixing the subfloor – our first house had a pretty uneven floor, but not so bad that we couldn’t prep with some sanding and filling. Love to hear how they turned out!
I LOVE this idea! We already have hardwood flooring throughout our house (lucky I know, 1950’s cape cod!) but I HATE the concrete in the basement. We were thinking of doing the epoxy, but I don’t really like the look. So…I’m going to do a test, where I put down epoxy to seal the floor, then do the kraft paper and poly. I’ll post and say how it turned out!
Oh great, Lisa! Do keep us posted- applying to concrete is one of the questions we get the most. š
Lisa- I’ve been waiting for another post to see how the epoxy on the concrete worked for you. We want to do this for our sons room but our floors are concrete and I want to “go to school” on you before we start! Someone- please let us know how this is working on your concrete floors! We’re scared but desperate too get rid of this nasty carpet!
I’m anxious to know if the epoxy worked! Please let me know! I want to do my son’s room but don’t want have to redo! This sounds perfect for this room!
I wrote on our FAQ for the floors (link in sidebar) that I know of people who’ve successfully applied this to concrete. The key is to only use the poly- no glue/water. Just brush on the poly like I do with the glue in the video, apply paper and brush over, let dry and then coat with coats of poly. While I haven’t done it myself, I’ve had a couple of people tell me it worked for them. Good luck! š
I just did this for my boys room and it is wonderful! Thank you for sharing this video, my daughters room is next.
Thanks a bunch, my husband was relieved to hear it. The wrinkles have been weighing heavy on his mind. Again thanks for all your helpful info. It’s really great.
Loved your video tutorial, great tips. You have inspired me to rip all of our carpet out and begin the task. Prep is always the hard part. We finished one room, well we are on coat four of poly. We seem to have a bunch of wrinkles left. Three days post glue. Our sub floor is plywood. Is this normal? Just wanted some reassurance before we begin room two! Thanks in advance
.
I always think it looks awful, too at the beginning. The wrinkles always subside for me after coating with poly and letting it sit for a week. They continue to relax even after that, though there will always be a couple of wrinkles- though nothing that bothers us. š Hope that helps!
When I saw this on pinterest.com, I was thrilled! Our 1920’s bungalow has old wood floors that are in terrible shape, but we don’t have the budget to refinish them. I love the leather-look of this remodel and can hardly wait to head over to Home Depot for my brown paper, glue and stain. Thank you so much for an easy, inexpensive–yet beautiful idea!