Get ready for the new gardening year with a super simple system for storing and organizing seeds so you know what to buy. Planning and taking a few steps now will go along way to a successful garden year.
You can learn more about seeds and seed starting in the Seed Starting Guide.
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While there’s not a lot to do in most winter gardens, one thing you can do is to plan your garden and start organizing your seeds so you know what to purchase for the new gardening year.
Before I share my simple seed storage option, let me answer the question about why it’s a good idea to start seeds for both flower and vegetable gardens. I list the four main reasons you should use seeds here, but I also had an experience that illustrated for me again why starting plants from seed is so good.
A few years ago for a variety of reasons (#life) I didn’t start one seed inside. I found myself having to shop at a number of nurseries and stores for seedlings and still couldn’t find all the varieties I like to plant each year.
In the ten years that I had consistently started seeds of tomatoes, peppers, broccoli, cabbage, and more I had forgotten what it was like to be at the whim of whoever decides what varieties to offer. I’d like to say that I discovered some cool new varieties, but mostly it was a summer of thinking, “I wish we had (broccoli, tomato, etc,), it was so much better.”
So every year that I can, I plan, organize, and purchase seeds way in advance of the season so I can grow what I want, when I need to. Lesson learned.
Now that our little seed starting pep talk is done, I’ll share how I keep and organize those seeds, plus a few favorite varieties I try to grow every year. (And be sure to read the seed starting guide for more information and links to how-to articles – it’s simple and the feeling of growing your own is so fun.)
Organizing Seeds
There are basically three steps to organize and record your seeds and seed needs for the coming season (you’ll find a page in the free Garden Notebook Journal -mine is shown above- to help):
- Make a list of the seeds you have from the previous year(s).
- Next to that list, write down the seeds you need to buy, like “shell pea” or “1 roma tomato.”
- Go through your favorite catalogs to find the specific varieties you want to try of the seeds you need and write the varietal names next to the “need to buy” column. Bonus: this is actually one of my favorite winter time activities!
Now you have two options: buy seeds from a store or the catalogs.
You can take your list to a store offering a sale on quality seeds (often Fred Meyer locally for me) in order to get each packet for $1-1.50 each. You’ll save shipping costs as well, but you’ll give up a lot in the way of variety. The stores just don’t have the space to stock all the options.
My preference is to order from online catalogs. You get to choose from hundreds of options and when ordering from a quality company, can feel good about your seeds and where they come from. You can see the companies I order from consistently here – be sure to get on their mailing lists just for the information that’s often included in the catalogs.
Simple Seed Storage System
How to Store Seeds Correctly
You do not need to purchase new vegetable or flower seeds every year (unless you use them all up of course), since most seeds remain viable for 2-5 years, depending on the seed. One of the ways you can help your leftover seeds last longer is to store them in the correct way.
Which is not throwing them in a garden tote or leaving the packets on a shelf in the garden shed (a-hem…learn from my mistakes). The heat, humidity, and cold will take their toll and the seeds might not even sprout for you in year two, let alone year three or four.
To keep my seeds in the best shape I developed an easy seed storage system that uses simple office and kitchen products that are easy to find, and may even be something you have in your house already.
Seed Storage Supplies:
- Lidded Portable File Box that holds hanging files in a dark color (you need to be able to keep out the light). I would suggest a larger file box like this so that you can hold all your seeds easily – even pelleted seeds that come in a container like you can see below.
- Hanging Files, preferably files with pockets on one side (apparently they don’t sell folders with pockets anymore, though I do use them as you can see below, so I would suggest using tape and a cut-up manilla folder to create pockets on one side).
- Alphabet Labels for files (or skip buying labels and get these hanging files with built-in erasable tabs).
- Plastic sealable baggies, sandwich size. I’ve reused mine for years, but you can also get compostable baggies.
Set up your seed storage system:
- Attach alphabet labels to hanging file folders.
- Set the folders into the file box.
- Add the seed packets to each folder accordingly – beets, broccoli, and beans in the A-B folder, carrots and corn in the C-D folder, and so on.
- After the seed packets have been opened, place the packet in one of the zip top baggies to keep as much air from them as possible and place the baggie in the correct folder.
TIPS:
- I like to keep new packets in the folder’s pockets, moving them to baggies after I’ve opened them.
- Once in the baggie, I keep all the same type seeds in one baggie – all the carrot varieties, all the beets, etc.
- But I will separate when it makes sense: lettuces are separated into baggies of Winter, Summer, Romain, Loose Leaf, and Butterhead. Tomatoes are separated into Hybrid, Heirloom, and Paste. Just do what makes sense to you. Use a black permanent marker to write on the baggie when separating into types like this.
- Keep a separate hanging file in the front of your box to hold unused baggies, plant tags (these are the simple tags I’ve found to work the best), bean inoculation packets, or other seed related things. The baggies I started this system with more than 10 years ago are still going strong!
Additional Benefit
The other thing that I like about this system for storing seeds, versus just having them in a shoe box type container, is that the baggies make it really easy to grab and carry the seeds you need out to the garden.
If it’s time to plant carrots, for example, I just grab the baggie with carrots (I’ll add any unopened packet if I have it) and take them all out with me. Then I know all the varieties I want to plant are available.
If I’m succession planting lettuce at 2-week intervals, I’ll just keep the loose-leaf lettuce baggie in my garden tote until the planting window is done.
There’s no rifling through packets or having multiple packets loose in my garden tote. This is a bonus, though, because the main this is that with this system I regularly have 4 and 5 year old seed sprout!
Favorite Seed Varieties
As long as we’re talking about seeds, here are some of my favorites (you can see more of my tried and true vegetable varieties here) I like to grow:
Of course I grow a row of Emerite pole beans every year, but I like to compliment it with another variety. Fortex, a filet pole bean like Emerite, has great flavor and production, plus they’re often 8-10 inches! They are stringless and stay tender for quite awhile on the vine.
I LOVE this bean – it’s a great compliment to the timing of Emerite, so I now grow these two beans only each year.
When I’ve grown Chinese cabbage in the past they’ve been all ready at once and they are huge, so it was hard to use them before they went bad.
These are smaller heads that are somewhat heat tolerant (for a Chinese cabbage, that is) so I they are good for early spring and fall production. And while they also mature all at once, the smaller heads are a lot easier to use up. When I’m on the ball and plant these in succession over a month, the harvest is easier to manage.
I grow Cascadia snap pea and Oregon Sugar Pod snow pea every year, and in our 1 acre garden I also grew shell peas (the flavor is incredible).
Maestro produces well over a period of time and the pods are held somewhat away from the vines for picking. The peas are tender and each pod holds a good amount.
I grow these along with my favorite mini white Baby Boo Pumpkins every year. I LOVE these so much for decorating and after the first year I now make sure to save the seeds so I don’t have to buy them (I keep them in an envelope in a baggie in the file box, just like purchased seeds).
Italian White Sunflower
I find a space for this, along with a classic yellow pollen-free sunflower (currently unavailable–try this instead), in the garden each year. I love the color and the multi-branching habit that is perfect for cutting. And it keeps producing flowers for months, unlike some other sunflowers.
I so love the airy beauty of cosmos and the white and pastel colors of this classic mix. This is the 4-5 foot tall variety and I have found they produce the longest, pumping out flowers long after the smaller varieties have died.
Finding Sensation cosmos in the nurseries is nearly impossible – it’s almost always the shorter varieties, so this is one of the reasons to start your own from seeds for cottage cut flowers all summer long!
Are there any new varieties you think I should try?
This article has been updated – it was originally published in January of 2013.
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Gin says
We were about to toss an old file folder when we read your article re. storing seeds. Out came the various containers with old and new packets and labeling and filing began. I cut pics and descriptions from seed catalogs to file with each. Our garden notebook has its own space in the back. We also decided to start some seeds indoors this year. My husband built a shelf and we hung a grow light.
Thanks for sharing your system. We look forward each Saturday to reading your blog.
Happy growing!
Jami says
I’m so glad this was helpful to you, Gin!
Janice Corona says
The speckled Roma’s look very interesting where did you purchased the seeds for them ? And I like the smaller Chinese Cabbage I got regular Cabbage started. I have started some seeds this year last year I didn’t. I did bush gr. Beans, yellow squash, green zucchini, pumpkins for the grandbabies. Purple gr. beans..(which I did do a few seeds last year they were wonderful. Lemon cucumbers and pickle cucumbers. I do need to get my seeds better organized I just have them in plastic bags in a plastic coffee …I need to come visit more often and read more of your post..thank you so much Janice
Jami says
I bought the seeds for Speckled Roman paste tomatoes from Pinetree Garden Seeds, but I’m sure they are at lots of other places, too. 🙂
Sakura says
Hi Jamie, its me again. If you keep seeds from last year do you have to refrigerate them or freeze them to make them grow this season? Also you should try and pickle your chinese cabbage. My mom does it all the time, it’s a fermented pickle and I think it tastes great with some rice and miso soup. Just a thought.
Jami says
Hey, Sakura! I keep all my seeds in my file box from year-to-year and it lives in our laundry room, so no special treatment. There are a few seeds that are finicky and germination just goes down with any storage (parsnips come to mind…), but most are good for 2-3 years even. When a packet is a few years old I will sow the seeds thicker, just to hedge my bets and I figure whatever sprouts is a blessing! I’ve done this with even 5 yr-old packets and had some germination, as it’s hard for me to just pitch it without knowing. 🙂
Nice idea about the cabbage – I’ll keep it in mind!
Gina says
I’ve been pouring over seed catalogs for weeks and must get my order sent. Such fun! My worse problem is that I can get too excited and make unrealistic gardening plans!
Gina
Amye says
I just found your blog and I’m in love! I started some spinach and lettuce inside today. Last year I started all my seeds outdoors (final terms of nursing school did not allow me to do much) and it worked well, but I wanted a head start this year. I noticed Walmart has a larger organic section of seeds than they have had before, but I’m definitely going to go check out Fred Meyer. Do you have an organic plant feed that you make yourself or do you buy one from somewhere? Also any idea what would grow well in a rock wall, other than zucchini?
Jami says
Thank you, Amye! I’ll have to check out the Walmart organics. Hard to beat 40% off at Freds and I think Ed Hume seeds are good quality, though not very many are organic. I usually use a diluted fish emulsion (one that’s been ordorized, or whatever, so it doesn’t stink so much inside) about once a week after the two-week mark for the seedlings. I either make an all-purpose fertilizer (the recipe I use is on my Organic Gardening Checklist you can download) or buy any organic one that’s on sale. 🙂 Hmmm, a rock wall, huh? Pumpkins? Cukes? Bush beans? If you keep it watered, most anything I’d think.
Tammy says
I ordered Fortex for the first time from Osborne Seed online. Also because I read a lot of rave reviews about it. Cant wait to see how they do. Another new one I am trying is Opalka paste tomato. Lots of people raving about this one too. Nice post!
Jami says
Oh, I know the reviews of Fortex are something, huh? It would have to be amazing to make me like ’em better than Emerite, though! I have grown the Opalka and it is good, though I really couldn’t tell the difference between it and Amish Paste. I haven’t heard of Osborne seed before – I’ll have to look them up! As if I need more eye candy…
Tammy says
I have never tried Emerite either, i have mostly used Blue Lake,and tried Jade last yr. I am getting ready to make a seed order. What is your favorite tomatoes? I ordered Fortex, Lewis, and stringless blue lake from Osborne.
Jami says
Tammy, I hope to never have a season without these favorite tomatoes: Brandywine, Cherokee Purple, and Pineapple heirlooms, Early Girl hybrid (always a consistent producer no matter the weather!), and one of the big plum tomatoes like Amish Paste or Cuore di Bue along with a hybrid Roma-type. Blight in our area can make heirloom production spotty some years, so I always make sure to grow hybrids as well – usually a 50/50 mix, just to cover my bases. Wouldn’t want to be without, you know?
Oh, and I did a whole post on Emerite beans and why I love them…maybe next year for you. 🙂
Tammy says
I will certainly try the Emerite, as I had read a great deal of rave reviews about them as well. But the tomatoes seem to be the hardest for me to decide on. Here is a list of the tomato seeds I have and some that I am considering ordering:
http://tammyinwv.blogspot.com/2012/12/making-plans-for-2013-garden.html
The first time I grew hybrids was in my new potager, and had a sudden outbreak of tomato horn worms, and stink bugs, so it was hard to judge any of them when most were ruined, then last yr we had the drought, and I was away and didnt get anything watered. This yr, I hope to talk hubby into drip irrigation for the raised beds. One of the hybrid tomatoes i am thinking of trying is “Better Boy”. However I am sticking mostly with heirlooms or OP so I can save the seed. Have you tried intensive gardening techniques or do u plant in the traditional garden format? Boy, i am so sorry, i didnt realize I would end up making my post into a full novel,lol.
Jami says
Wow, you have a lot of seeds already, lol! I’ve grown a lot of those, too – your list made me remember that I should’ve added Black Cherry, love that one. Better Boy is another consistent hybrid whenever I’ve grown it – it’s a bit bigger than Early girl, but smaller than the Big Beef types. Loved Black Krim and Mortgage Lifter when I tried those, but when I’m running out of room I stick with my absolute favs. 🙂 Of the varieties you’re looking at: I, too, want to try Ultimate Opener – Pinetree was out and I don’t want to pay more shipping, so I’ll have to look for that on Territorial’s seed racks (always ify, sadly) and Opalka is good – again, similar to Amish Paste in my book. I wasn’t particularly impressed with Kellogg’s Bfst and am always disappointed with Stupice – they are so small and actually not as early for me as I hope. Course, all these may do well in your microclimate and your taste buds and that’s half the fun – trying different types! 🙂
Sakura says
I tried starting plants from seeds last year and they were horrible. My beans and chard well, but tomatoes and peppers were little scrawny plants. I’m going to try again this year but with a grow light, hopefully that will make a big difference.
Jami says
I found that a grow light really made a difference, Sakura – especially when I was able to keep it really close to the seedlings as they grew. Also, fertilizing with an organic formula (or even fish emulsion, just get the deodorized kind or your whole family will complain – of this I know!) helped create stocky plants as well. I find peppers are harder to start than tomatoes and should be started a couple weeks earlier. Glad you hear you’re trying again!
Michelle says
I am so jealous of those who live in the valley! I am on the “dry side” in Bend at almost 4000ft. Between the really short season, the altitude, the deer and the golden ground squirrels I am lucky to get a raised bed of herbs and a few tomatoes.
‘
Jami says
Bummer, Michelle 🙁
Wendi says
Thank you for letting me know about the seed sale at Fred Meyer. I went over and was able to get the few seeds I didn’t have already. I am very interested in following your advice on gardening in this area, we recently moved to Oregon (Hillsboro) from the Southwest.
Jami says
Ooh – welcome to Oregon, Wendi! I think you’re going to enjoy gardening here. 😉
Tami says
I started my plants from seeds last year for the first time…using your directions they did great!
I also read several places to transplant the tomatoes 3 times in a little bigger pot each time which I did and also put a fan on my seedlings for abit every day. I had nice hardy plants.
Jami says
Congratulations, Tami! Good to hear my blog was helpful to you. I bet you’re hooked on seeds, now, huh? There’s just something about growing the whole plant that makes the fruit that much sweeter. 🙂