Need to add an over-the-stove microwave to already existing cabinets? Follow these steps to retrofit a cabinet for a microwave and then install it over your stove to gain counter space and usability in your kitchen. Includes tips and lessons learned - and the one time we don't want you to follow the recommendations.
Some links in this article are affiliate links and if you click on them I will receive a small commission at no cost to you.
Adding an over-the-range microwave was one of the first steps towards the remodel of our ranch-to-cottage kitchen, and it made a huge difference right away in how we were able to use our kitchen and counters.
Getting the microwave off the counter allowed us to have a coffee station in a more convenient area and gave me more room for bigger cooking projects like canning. It also just looks cleaner and less cluttered.
However, we had to reconfigure the cabinet above the stove to make this a reality, and while it may seem daunting at first, it's really just a few easy steps, especially if you have the right tools.
We did learn a few things though, and thought we'd share a tutorial along with our tips - the biggest of which is to measure YOUR pots and think about how YOU will use your stove when you're deciding where to place your microwave. DON'T just go by the general recommendations.
So, if you, too, would you like to go from something like this typical range hood set up (we'd already removed the doors on the cabinet):
To this:
Then read on for the steps we took to retrofit our too-low cabinet to hold a microwave that still allowed me to use a canner or lift pot lids without banging my knuckles.
How to Retrofit a Cabinet for a Microwave
1. Remove the Range Hood and Bottom Cabinet Shelf
Our cabinet was not a separate box, but part of the whole wall cabinet, so after turning off the power to the range hood and removing it (which was not vented, as we have a Jenn-Air range which vents below, though the steps are the same whether vented or not) the next step was to use an oscillating tool to cut out the bottom shelf of the cabinet.
Why use an oscillating tool/saw?
Brian sometimes calls this tool a "plunge saw" because you can cut right into the wood cleanly in smaller places than a sawzall or jigsaw. This is the one tool you really need for this project, though you can borrow one like we did at the time (though we bought one not long after because they are so handy for lots of other DIY projects like this).
How to use an oscillating tool to cut out the shelf:
- Remove any finish pieces (ours had a 1 x 2 finish piece across the front).
- Make sure the correct blade is on the tool, one specifically for cutting wood (we had the wrong blade on our borrowed tool and it smoked and created a black spot, so always check).
- Use the saw to cut flush against the side cabinet (as pictured above).
Our goal was to be able to cut the bottom out cleanly and then be able to just move it higher and create a new cabinet shelf.
Using the correct blade, Brian had the bottom of the original cabinet cut out fairly cleanly in a short amount of time. (Please ignore how awful the wall looks - it's never meant to be seen...)
2. Determine How Far Above Your Stove to Hang The Microwave
The photo above is out of order (you'll notice the bottom of the installed microwave), but I'm using it here to illustrate a major point to decide before proceeding:
Decide the height you want the microwave to hang above the stove.
Here's my tip to help:
Get out all your biggest pots (including a boiling water canner, if you use one) and have someone measure the space you need not only to have the pot sit there, but also as you lift the lid to look inside and take things out.
Really think about how you use your stove top and not just where others put theirs. You get to customize your microwave! I had seen many examples where the microwave was installed so low that the back range burners were almost useless and I didn't want that to happen in my kitchen.
What is the recommendation?
To illustrate how important this is, the recommendation on the instructions is 30 inches from the top of the stove to the top of the microwave - that is considered "standard."
After measuring with our pots, I knew I needed the bottom of the microwave to be 22 inches from the stove top to easily remove jars from a canner, for a total of 38 inches from the top of the stove to the top of the microwave. That's a full 8 inches difference.
Yours doesn't have to be that high and if you're shorter than my 5 foot, 5 inches height that might be a factor, too. But my point is to talk about it and customize it for you.
Okay, so we decided on 38 inches and then added another 1/2 inch because the directions seemed to indicate it was needed for installation or something. (Spoiler: it wasn't.)
3. Reattach Self and Deal with Electrical
Secure the new shelf:
Once you determine the height you want, use simple L-brackets to re-mount the cabinet bottom to the new spot. Another option would be to use a nail gun from the insides of the cabinets on either side and nail right into the sides of the shelf.
Creating an electrical outlet:
Our range hood had been hard-wired, as are most houses I assume. We had turned the electricity off to this before initially removing the hood.
Luckily, Brian had learned to do some basic electrical work through our remodels and we decided the best option was to place an outlet into the corner of the new shelf for the microwave cord and plug.
The other option would've been to put the box on the very top of the cabinets, but it would've left a really large hole for the plug to fit through that could've been seen while standing in the kitchen.
He used an electrical box we had that was bright blue, spray painted it white so it would blend, hooked it up, and then attached a white switch plate.
4. Attach Mounting Bracket and Create Hole for Electrical
Attach the microwave's metal mounting plate that it will sit on according the the directions.
Custom Tip: The bracket/mount is supposed to attach to the wall, but if you have cabinets like we did this tip might be helpful:
- There was 1/4 inch space created by the wood backing of the upper cabinet left after cutting out the bottom. Brian found a scrap piece of plywood and cut it to fit.
Lesson? Keep your scraps! You never know when they might come in handy.
Also, you might notice how grainy the pictures are becoming. Sorry! Our morning project progressed to nightfall (granted, pre-daylight savings), as DIY projects often do, right?
Next up, you'll need to drill a hole through the shelf bottom that's big enough to get the microwave cord plug through. Then plug it in to the electrical box before mounting on the wall.
TIP: it helps to have someone standing on a stool to pull the cord through as the other person lifts the microwave to the mounting bracket so it doesn't get caught behind the microwave.
Learn from our mistakes: See that L-bracket towards the back? Yeah, Brian had to take that off after trying to shove the (heavy) microwave in place a number of times and realizing it was getting hung up on just this bracket. Sigh.
5. Mount the Microwave
Set the microwave into place according to the instructions using the mounting bracket. For us this involved a lot of grunting and saying things like "what's wrong? Why won't it go in?" And removing one of the L-brackets like I mentioned.
After the microwave is on the bracket, use the template included with your microwave to attach the screws through the shelf into the top of the microwave hood.
This was when we realized that the extra 1/2 inch wasn't needed, so our "customized" microwave is actually sitting 1/2 inch higher than we had originally measured.
Oh, well, I can see inside fine. It might be too high for shorter folks, although our 5' 4" daughter doesn't have a problem with it. In my book it's better than being too low, because I use the stove A LOT more than the microwave.
6. Finish Off the Shelf Above
Even with the electrical box painted white it didn't look too great on the newly created shelf with the visible cord and unfinished wood that was always meant to be inside cabinet doors.
We planned on creating a false back but until we could get to it I used a plate and some teapots to distract and cover the outlet.
UPDATE: The finished beadboard cover for the back of the shelf:
A few months later we created a simple false back to cover the electrical out of scrap beadboard and picture molding.
- We cut all the wood to size.
- Attached the wood frame molding to the beadboard with glue and clamps.
- Painted it to match the cabinets.
- Screwed in a simple hook to be able to pull it out if needed to reach the outlet.
Perfect - we loved the finished look!
But the biggest thing I was happy with?
That we took the time to raise the cabinet instead of just attaching it at the recommended lower height.
I was grateful for this every time I lifted the lid to my stockpot. Using just the 30 inch measurement the microwave would've actually hung 3-1/2 inches below the bottom of our cabinets!
I would not have been able to lift the lid of my stockpot like I showed in the earlier photo, and can you imagine trying to lift jars out of a canner? Or to check on a soup or stock? It was SO worth measuring.
This tutorial has been updated - it was originally published in April of 2011.
Disclosure: affiliate links in this article will earn commission based on sales, but it doesn't change your price. Click here to read my full disclaimer and advertising disclosure.
Pamela J Allen says
Thanks having the same situation. What sort of blade did you use on the plunge saw.
Jami says
We used a wood blade.
Kerri says
Thanks for this! Can I ask how exactly you reattached the shelf so that it was secure enough to support the weight of the microwave? I see the L brackets but you mentioned you needed to remove at least one of them. Thanks!
Jami says
We just used the L brackets shown for the shelf. The shelf didn't support the microwave - the metal mounting bar on the wall does. I'm pretty sure most wall microwaves are like this, but you could check before purchasing, too. Hope that answered your question!
Jennifer says
This is exactly what I am needing for my kitchen remodel! Im curious, how has the shelf been holding up to the weight of the cabinet all these years?
Jami says
It was great, Jennifer - truly just like a built-in cabinet. There was no issue with weight or bowing or anything.
Erica Aakre says
Great instructions!! Looking into doing this in our kitchen as well. Thanks for the ideas of trying the larger pots and pans to see what height you need.
Jami says
I'm so glad you found this helpful, Erica.
Marilyn W says
Very helpful, thanks
KK says
thats a cool way of getting some space for stuff around the kitchen..but! what about the exhaust?
Jami says
We have a down-draft stove that vents outdoors, so we didn't need an exhaust. If so, there are ways to attach it to the exhaust - we just didn't have one above the stove.
Pam says
Can the microwave be hard wired like our current range hood that we're removing is, thus eliminating the need for installing an outlet? ALSO, our current range hood is vented up thru the ceiling thru to the roof. Can we tie the microwave vent into that?
Jami says
If you can figure out the hard-wiring, go for it Pam. It seemed more difficult for us, since the microwave came with a plug. I'm pretty sure the directions for installing the microwave will include connecting the existing vent, since that's what most people have. Hope that helps!
tabitha says
really glad you posted this i have done this before it has been several years ago and a cabinet man did my cabinets but i am not redoing my cabinets this time just putting in the microwave and i was looking for a refresher coarse. i think i am good to go now thanks a lot yours looks great by the way. God Bless!
Crystal says
Thank you for this! The plunge saw suggestion alone is gold.
Roni says
Hi there!! Looks awesome and I'm kinda doing the same over my range. How tall is the shelf over your microwave??
Michelle says
We have this same challenge with our new microwave. What a great idea (and tutorial) you have! What did you do for venting tho? Our old one vented out the top, through the cupboard.
Jami says
We were lucky to have a down-draft range, Michelle, so we didn't need venting above. I'd probably do the same thing, but just make a wood cover for the vent pipe to hide it. 🙂
Michelle says
That's what we were thinking. Thanks for your response! 😀
betsy justis says
HURRAY!! My husband is a photographer and very visual. He needed this to see how our new micro could fit. We have a grey (yes, elephant grey!) hood fan (that vents back into to the kitchen for goodness sake!) and a cabinet to take out and he could not visualize how the new bigger microwave could fit it we took out the cabinet. This is just what he needed! One more weekend project.....!
Anonymous says
Thank you for sharing...our project is very much like this and we've just been scratching our heads trying to think what to do.
Mary Lou Arnold says
Thank you for this! We are about to do the same thing, and are not sure if there is venting or if the existing hood/fan is hardwired or not. I needed this great visual confidence booster - wish us luck!
Jami @ An Oregon Cottage says
Luck! 🙂
Mary Lou Arnold says
We are just about to do the same thing, except we need to find out if there is a vent behind the current exhaust hood, and whether or not it is hard wired. Thank you so much - I needed the visual confidence booster - wish us luck! 🙂
Anonymous says
Thanks for posting this. We are having this same issue with our kitchen. We will need to build something similar to get our new microwave up..this is exactly what I need to show my husband.
Anonymous says
I'm about to do the same thing, but I think I will have a professional carpenter do it. Thanks for posting this though, it was quite helpful!
Scott
Anonymous says
So glad you posted this, it was so nice to see it be done. We doing essentially the same project. One difference is that ours is not against a wall but only a cabinet back (if that makes sense). My husband is pretty hand, he's an electrician so I don't worry that he can't do it. However, it was nice to have a visual to look at. Your concerns were the same as mine, the height issue because I cook and can.
Linda
Anonymous says
Hi
It looks great 🙂
We live in a tract home/cottage wanna be. We had the standard yuck cabinets that came with our home. They were kind of an ash color. I wanted butter yellow walls and white cabinets. My husband painted the cabinets in the bath and they looked ok, however, not something that we wanted on display in our kitchen/living/dining area. So later he stumbled on the idea to use beadboard on the kitchen cabinets. He used a product from Home Depot that comes in a package of 4 or 8 pieces. It was not as heavy as real bead board, however, still had the depth to it to not look cheap. He cut it out and placed it between the trim and then primed and painted the whole thing white. He also cut out 3 panels to put in glass.
The cabinets look so professional. You really could not tell that they did not come from the factory that way.
You might want to consider this product for doing your back splash. You could also do the cabinets in bead board and do something else for the back splash. My husband would be glad to give you any tips about it.
Either way, I am looking forward to seeing how your kitchen turns out. Ya'll do beautiful work.
Joy