In Monday's post, I alluded to an issue I had last week that involved gluing, crying, tearing, and gluing again. And then I left you hanging.
Not very nice of me. I'm sure that some of you have been up at night just wondering what on earth happened.
Well, you can rest easy tonight. Here's the whole story:
After spending 7 hours gluing the torn brown paper to the floor of our master bedroom - just like I did in our last house, our son's bedroom floor, and our daughter's bedroom floor (which then got featured in Cottages and Bungalows magazine!) - I put the first coat of polyurethane on it, closed the door and left it to dry for the required time.
When I opened the door I saw this:
And gasped, "Oh no!" Maybe I screamed it. I don't know, but I do know it wasn't a happy sound.
Oh, and in case you're wondering - no, greasy spots are NOT supposed to be a part of the "leather-like" look.
How could this happen when I've done it so many times before?
I'm afraid to say it's frugality gone awry. I thought the only reason I recommended water-based polyurethane in the video we did explaining how to do this flooring technique was because it dried fast.
When I went to the store to buy the items for this bedroom, I noticed that oil-based poly was now "fast drying" with only a 4-hour wait between coats. I could still get this done in one day and...here's the clincher...
It was $15 dollars cheaper.
So, now we know there is another reason beside fast-drying time to use water-based polyurethane:
Paper and oil do not mix.
I should mention I learned one more reason to never use oil-based poly again (as if I needed another!)- the smell was so bad that it gave me a headache within the first 5 minutes of opening the can. I wish I was kidding. Then the smell wafted throughout the whole house and lingered for days.
And that was just with the one coat. Not worth it for me.
What did I do? Well, I did cry a bit- just at the thought of another 7 hours of gluing work that I thought was behind me. They were just tears of frustration. Ugh.
Then I started tearing up the paper. I thought I'd just get the greasy spots, as I didn't want them showing through, but it was also still really wrinkled (it takes a good week for all the wrinkles to ease), so I needed to get those up as well. Then Brian sanded the whole thing with a palm sander to make sure any remaining oil poly would take the new glue.
I started tearing thinking it would take me a couple hours...eight hours later I was ready for Brian to sand. And that was with my daughter helping some. *sigh*
After another 7 hours gluing more paper down (my kids helped me tear and crumple the paper, bless them) this is the floor we now have.
Problem is- it doesn't look anything like what we're used to.
It doesn't have that cool "texture-y" look the other floors have (this is a picture of our son's room floor at the threshold to illustrate) that came from crumpling the paper.
And the color- sheesh, it looked more like Bandaids or plastic bags than leather. I kept waiting for it to dry more and see the look come through.
But it didn't.
The only thing I can figure out is that I noticed that the paper seemed thicker than the last time I did this (a year ago). It didn't tear as easily and was harder to get the rounded corners I prefer. The thicker paper must not soak up the glue/poly in the same way that creates that great mottled look that helps it look like leather.
So now I've brushed another coat of poly on top that I tinted with some walnut colored stain we had in the garage. And while it looks like paint brushed on, it's actually better than before (which I didn't get a picture of- it's too hard to see in a photo- you'll have to trust me on this).
I think with rugs and furniture, I'll be able to live with it- but it doesn't help that it's right across the hall from two rooms that turned out much better.
In the end, my two-day project turned in to a 6 day ordeal - with our bedroom furniture stashed all through the house and us taking over our son's bed (lucky he's at camp most of the time).
And the cost? I had to buy more glue, more paper (the room needed slightly more than half a roll- so now I've got a LOT of brown craft paper left over from the second roll), and of course the water-based poly. My "saving" us $15 has now cost us an extra $57. *gah*
The (hard) lesson seems to be, stick with what you know works (learn from me, folks!), and find thin enough paper to get a good, mottled look.
Has anyone else experienced DIY issues like this "frugality gone wrong?" Please tell me I'm not the only one.
-Jami
Alyssa says
Hey there! I was wondering if you might have any advice for repair. I have purchased a home with a paper floor, but it looks like they did not use enough poly to protect it. Under the washer and in a few other areas it is discolored and has a few tears all the way down to the old linoleum. We found a bucket of oil based poly we thought they must have used on the floor. Tried to dunk a piece of paper into the poly and just pasting it on top, but it wouldn't stick at all. Just kept crumpling up.
Don't suppose you might have any advice/ideas?
Jami says
Hmmm, well I wouldn't have used this in an area with a washer, but that's just me. 🙂
And obviously wouldn't have used oil based since that leaves oil marks on the paper.
Here's how I patch areas: crumple new pieces of paper; brush water based poly over the areas you need to cover (go wider than discolored or worn areas to be sure); smooth paper over poly and then brush more poly over the top of the new pieces. If the pieces move too much, let them dry first before coating the tops with poly. Let dry and then add more layers of poly as you see fit to form a good top, drying between each according to the directions on the poly.
kandi C says
Here is a problem I encountered with laying down a brown paper bag floor in an entire house. Maybe you can help me figure out why this is happening? The house where I used the paper bags has several different types of floors. The living room was partially ceramic tile and part linoleum. Part of the house had a concrete floor and some rooms had wood. The person who helped me prepare the floors prior to installation used a quick drying concrete product similar to Quikrete to patch holes and level spots. He mixed it correctly and it was smooth and dry before we began the installation. About two weeks after we finished the paper bag floor, several spots began to dry out and rip holes everywhere he used the concrete product. What is strange is that it turned back into dry concrete dust piles under the bag floor. So we are getting holes with deep piles of concrete dust. Any ideas on why this is happening?
Jami says
Sorry, I don't have any experience with that type of flooring or the concrete mix, so I can't help you. I've only ever applied this to plywood, fiberboard, and OSB.
Margaret says
I tried this in my kitchen, luckily I only did a small section but it didn't stick in alot of places and there's no wrinkles when it dried..
Kee Kee says
I know why this happened to your latest floor. It is the glue, not the paper. I too tried to save a little money. I am the cheapest woman alive, always trying to save even a penny whenever I can. I originally went to Home Depot, bought the $15 Elmer's Glue-All Extra Strong Formula, and laid my paper using a 50/50 water mix. I completed 1/3 of my floor. Later, I was shopping the $1.99 pattern sale at Hobby Lobby and decided to see if their price on glue was cheaper. So when I saw a gallon of Elmer's School Glue for $8 (after the 40% off coupon) I snatched it up. Right away I could feel the paper was different. I apply my paper a little differently than you. I dunk the entire unwrinkled piece in glue/water mixture, wad it up to wring out the mixture, and flatten it out on the floor with my hands and a brush. Seems to stick better that way. Anyway, I could feel that the glue was much different, and my result for the next third of the room was exactly like your latest room. I was using a different roll of paper, so thinking that was the culprit, I went to Lowes and bought all the different brands of paper they had. I also went to Home Depot and bought the original Extra Strong Glue-All. I tested the glue/water mixture on all the papers, let it dry overnight, and all of the papers came out texture-y, stone-like, vein-y, and non-lumpy as it had originally. Moral of the story: I think you may have used a different glue when you laid your original floor. It's not the paper; it's the glue. Anyway, thank you sooooo much for sharing this flooring with the world. I am absolutely in love with the look, low maintenance, durability, and cleanliness of it. When we pulled up the Lumber Liquidators laminate flooring, I was absolutely disgusted by the what was underneath. The mildew and whatnot that was able to get through the crevices and fester. Yuck. The seamlessness of this flooring means I never have to worry about that. Thank you, thank you, thank you. You are literally an Earth angel!
Jami says
Wow, this is awesome, Kee Kee - I love your testimonial since it's always what I have felt with this floor. 🙂 Thank you for the tips with glue and paper - your testing is great. And I've never thought of that happening under laminate flooring - good to know!!
Mitzi says
What did you do with the floor? Did you tear up the post that didn't stick or glue over it with the new glue?
Jami says
I'm not sure if this is to me or Kee Kee, but I tore up the problem areas and reapplied, but this time with poly as the glue since we had already spread a layer.
Linda B. says
Hi Jami,
We decided to do our master bedroom with the paper bag floor. We pulled up the carpet, padding, nails and filled all the holes and then prepped the cement with one coat of water based poly. Friday we tore and crumbled our builder's paper and started applying the paper around 830 p.m. We didn't finish applying the paper until 545 a.m. We had to get it done in 0ne shot because we have new bedroom furniture being delivered next Sat. We used miniwax red chestnut stain the next day and it was blotchy so my husband applied one more coat. I'm so impressed with the outcome. My daughter and I are now staying at my mom's due to the smell and fumes (she's been there since Friday). My husband is going to start the poly application this afternoon. It is supposed to rain later today and possibly the next couple days. Will that have an effect on the application of the water based poly? I really hope not but want to make sure because I've read in other blog posts that the poly needs to set for at least 4 days before putting furniture on it. Thank you in advance 🙂
Jami says
Wow, that's dedication to stay up all night!! I'm glad you like the finish. I always go by the manufacturer's direction on the can of polyurethane - they usually state how long to wait before applying more coats as well as how long before you put furniture/rugs down. The brands I've used have said 5 days, I think.
In my experience, the water-based poly dries well no matter what the weather, it may take a bit longer, but only an hour or so I would think. Hope that helps - enjoy your floor!
DebbieC says
And so far the oil based poly has been great. Really easy to apply- I did it with a brush and it seemed to level out pretty well. Now to clean the brush - which I hate!
DebbieC says
Thanks for sharing! I feel your pain. I am ready to start the poly and thought it was water based, and it is not! So now I have to put on my nonpaint clothes and see if I can exchange it since I haven't opened it yet.
I know how frustrating these projects can be! It helps me to know I'm not the only one that has problems! I am terrible at prep work and even though I thought I filled the seams good enough they still show through. And some of the spots I did seemed so thin I glued thicker paper over them. Stained with dark stain then messed up the doorway because my husband said he thought it was too dark. So had to reapply stain and it is a little off, but the overall effect isn't bad. Thanks for the tip about the poly! Maybe I can avoid the tears on this one.
Jami says
Oh, good - I'm glad you saw this in time and I hope you like the finished product, Debbie! And no, definitely not alone - so much of DIY is trial-and-error, isn't it? 🙂
DebbieC says
Thanks for you reply. Am ordering the Bona Traffic now (cheapest on your link, and fastest shipping) and taking back the oil based poly to Menards. I wanted to start today, thinking I would need at least 25 million coats! But with the Bona Traffic looks like it won't take nearly as long. Would it be better to get the HD or is the regular good enough? The room doesn't get a ton of traffic - through to the half bath and will be sewing/storage for me.
Love your blog and hope to start one of my own one of these days. Lots of goof ups to show, that's for sure!
Jami says
Oh, dear Debbie, I think that must've been an ad from my network (vs. a link I've added to an article) - using Bona is overkill for your project! (I hope you haven't ordered yet…) That's a commercial product. I've used polys from the home stores like Minwax waterbased Polycrylic, which is a LOT cheaper and lasts a long time. There are some people who've layered lots of coats, but I've always just used up the gallon in our rooms, which equalled about 3-4 coats and they lasted years and years.
DebbieC says
Oops! Just read about not using oil based poly after I did my first coat :-(. So far it looks okay, so will see. I did apply oil based stain first so hoping it will be okay. I guess there is always linoleum :-).
Jami says
Oh, if you used an oil based stain, it may not be a problem at all. That would make a big difference.
DebbieC says
Came back this morning to read how many coats - I couldn't remember how many you said and I had read someplace it seemed like I needed 25,000,000 or so! Anyway, I was headed in to do #6 when I read your comment, so I am now considering myself done with 5! It really looks perty good overall, if you don't look too closely. I will TRY not to point out the flaws to everyone who comes to look at it - I am the imperfect perfectionst! I do find bumps and either hairs or glue, not sure which, so I will go with glue :-). I did try to clean some up but didn't get them all. And by the time I was doing the 5th coat at 9:30 last night I really didn't care too much :-(. And of course this morning is too late. Oh well, it is what it is! I can't say I'm sorry I did it, but I'm not sure I would do it in any other room. The rest of our house has repurposed hardwood flooring we got from various and sundry places and I would have liked hardwood in there. I actually covered up hardwood, but it wasn't in real good shape and somebody had taken a wall out and left a board and lots of jagged edges in it's place. Debated a long time over what to do with it. but now it's done, and I can't wait to get the trim back up! Thanks so much. It's been a pleasure.
Jami says
I'm so glad it worked for you, Debbie! I think you will like it more when everything is put back. For the money, it is a good solution, still, I think. I'm with you, though - I'd take hardwood any day over this. 🙂 It's always been a way for me to get rid of carpet or cover up unsightly things. Enjoy!
sharon umble says
I just put the paper down last night and I have several fairly large ridges thru the floor what can or should I do
thaks
Jami says
The floor might not be all dry, but you can cut the largest ripples and glue them down again - but I'd just use the poly to glue them this time. My experience has been the longer it sits after putting the poly down (like a week or two) the more it 'relaxes.' Hope that helps!
Sara says
Hi Jami,
There are some water based (oil modified) stain and poly (2 in 1) combo available in the market ( e.g. Varathane One Step Stain and Polyurethane). Will it be a good judgement to buy one of these? Or should I stick with buying stain and poly separately?
And, if you suggest the latter, should both be water based, oil based, or of different base?
Much love
Jami says
I would test an area, Sara - buy a small container of the poly-stain mix and see what you think (I always thought this would be the easiest and much faster). As for the types of stain, I've never actually applied a stain straight to the paper - the others I've seen do it have used oil stain with water poly (though this always seemed odd to me). I think I link to one of these on the FAQ page?
Brenda says
I did a bedroom about a year ago and loved it at the time. However it is now cracking and coming up. I'm trying to decide if I should try to patch/repair it or give up and put vinyl down. Any suggestions?
Jami says
Sorry, Brenda! None of the floors we finished ever had those kind of problems, even years later (we did a 4-year follow-up video on our You Tube channel). I suppose it's up to you if you want to just cover it all or patch. We did eventually cover our bedroom in a floating engineered wood floor, but that was our plan all along - the paper was a temporary way we could get rid of the carpet.
lISA says
omg Just did my basement floor with brown paper and lepage glue. Used half water half glue. Its now bubbling up. Its been 2 days and the big ripples dont seem to be going away. what do I do? I have read that it takes up to a week for the ripples to flatten out? I want to put varathan over it but Im afraid to. I think those ripples in the paper will tear if I varathan it and then move furniture in the room. I am so disappointed. I did a practice test on a piece of plywood and that didn't happen on the test. Any suggestions? Also I purchased a J Tool. Which is like a roller with a hard surface simular to a rolling pin. I thought maybe if I wet the surface I could roll out the wrinkles and raised areas. I was really careful to make sure the surfaces were flat when I glued them down. PLEASE HELP!
Jami says
Sorry! To me it sounds like your water-to-glue ratio was too much water, not sure why your test didn't show that. Is your basement floor plywood? If they are really big ripples, you won't want to leave them. I'd use a putty knife to scrape up any big ripples and then apply a new piece of paper over the areas using 2/3 glue to 1/3 water ratio.
Kisla says
I was just wondering can you use the paper bag method on doors??
Jami says
People have used this technique on many things, Kisla! Some of them included walls, counters and table tops. I think doors would be fun, too.
Kisla says
Ohh ok thank you!
april says
I did a paper bag floor in my master bedroom. I looked at several different web sites to figure out the best way to do it. I had already purchased everything i was going to need to complete it and was really excited to get started. I glued all the paper down and let it dry overnight. The next morning i was ready for polyurethane but wanted to take one last look at how you did your floor and thats when i came across your situation with oil based poly. I panicked since i had gotten oil based poly to save money. I sat and thought about what i was going to do. I did a test and it left big brown spots! Oh no! So i did another test with a can of water based poly i had left from a different project. I thought maybe if i sealed it with a coat of water based then put on my oil based maybe it wouldn't leave spots and it worked. So i ended up doing two coats of water based poly on my floor and 3 coats of oil based on top of that and it looks amazing! There are two places where i had a little brown spot show through but i can live with that. Thank you for saving me by sharing your experience!
Jami says
Oh, I'm so glad April! And that's good to know that you can do the more inexpensive oil poly over the top of water-based - good solution.
Charlotte says
Jami, have you ever heard of anyone using this technique on a concrete floor that's on a screened porch? My porch gets a little snow on it during the winter, and during summer storm, some rain will blow in--not enough to soak the wicker furniture, but it's not waterproof by a long shot.
I know you're going to say, "All you can do is try it." But since you're the paper bag floor guru, I wonder if you have any anecdotal information about it being used on a covered, but exposed, area.
Thanks for your help!
Jami says
Check out my paper floor Q&A, Charlotte - I answer the question about cement floors there with a link to a site that did it successfully. As for the fact that it's a screened porch, as long as it's coated in the poly good, I think it would work!
Jean Upton says
Hi Jami...I am in the middle of doing a table (just wanted to see if I could do something small before I attempt the study) and I've noticed the air pockets (albeit small pockets). is this going to be a problem? I have tried to use a paintbrush to get them out, however there are still some there. my bag pieces are smaller, perhaps 3x4, - 4x6 pieces. any advice?
Thanks so very much for helping me!
Jean
Jami says
My experience, Jean, is that the wrinkles subside after a week or more of drying. They are less with the glue layer, reappear with the poly layers and then when it's fully cured after a week or so, they aren't as noticeable. There are still a few here and there - maybe they stand out more on a table top? (good idea, btw, to start with a smaller test area!)
shatanya says
5 Hi Jami.... first let me say thank you so much for your tutorials on the floor I've been researching and reading about the paper bag floors for over 5 months. I recently did my sons room and I decided to do a plank style finish. The floor I was laying on top of was a hard wood floor..... the gluing process went fine.... although it took me 5 hours.... How ever when I applied my stain Main wax Gunstock.... I got several very large noticeable oil botches. The weird thing. ...is they did not appear at first.... it was only after a hour of me applying the finish. I did a sample board prior to doing the floor........no problem. Do you have any suggestion on how to fix the blotches without ripping up the entire floor? ????? ?? I was thinking about just taking up the pieces that are heavily blocthed..........I don't know. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thank you in advance for your time and consideration.
Shay☺
Jami says
As you can see from this post, Shay, I haven't had good luck with oil based products on the paper floor. I know others stain it with oil based, but I would only use water based, since this blotching problem has caused be heartache. 🙁 That said, if I were you, I'd just remove the areas you don't like and try again- crossing fingers it works. 🙂 Weird that it only showed later...
Carol Failla says
It took days to find someone who had the same problem I just had - those ugly brown spots and finally I found this page and the reason why -- thankfully I was only doing a small shelf as practice before I tackled the floor, so have a chance to rip it off and start over. Thanks so much for putting your mistake out there for all to see so we can fix our own mistakes. Very grateful
Jami says
Glad you found this answered your question, Carol - and SO happy to know you did a test area, which is what I always suggest. 🙂
Chrissie says
I saw all the videos, and articles, and couldn't wait to try.. Did one room, thought it was going to look great.. applied the first coat of water based poly, and have a huge blushing problem.. I tried the denatured alcohol, which just seemed to make it more white.. We live in a much more humid climate.. What do I do now? sigh.
Jami says
By blushing problem, you mean the poly is drying white? I've never had that happen - have you contacted the manufacturer help line? Sorry I can't be of more help! 🙁
Chrissie says
It didn't do it all over, just in spots.. You mean the Polly manufacturer? Maybe that's the problem.. Maybe it's the wrong kind of water based Polly.. Do you recommend a brand?
Thanks! Chrissie
Jami says
Well, I more meant if the poly manufacturer had a help line and they could give you any ideas on why you've got the spots and if there's a way to get them out. I'm not brand loyal, we've used both Minwax's poly and Varathane brands with good outcomes. Sorry you're dealing with that, Chrissie!
Kristian says
I was all set to do this with oil based poly because i figured it would be more durable. I have ripped the old nasty carpet out of my house because I could not deal with four boys a dog and mud anymore. I am excited to do this in my living room but am wondering if I can do it in patches to allow for walking spaces in the main parts of my house.
Jami says
Lots of people have, Kristian, so you can. Sometimes there's a difference in where you stopped and started (who knows why?), so be aware of that - maybe you can build it into the design (like stop with a curved edge instead of straight, etc.). And yes, I do not recommend oil based poly, obviously. 😉
Colleen Withrow says
I really, really want to do this flooring in my living room, dining room, and bedrooms. I was wondering what would happen if I used two different color stains on the floor. Maybe a red tone and then a dark brown over that? Or would that be too much saturation ???
Jami says
I always suggest doing a test, either on a hidden part of the floor or a piece of plywood or subfloor. Let us know how this works!
Crystal says
I am going to try this in my bedroom, its concrete already because I hated the stinky carpet. Anyway I was going to buy Kraft paper because I can get it in huge rolls for 20 bucks (thought is to do the whole house) but what weight would you buy? From what I read you feel lighter weight paper is better. Kraft paper comes in lightweight, medium and heavy. I was thinking of going with the medium. Thoughts on this??
Jami says
I'm not that familiar with the weights of paper, but medium sounds right to me, too, Crystal. The paper I've used successfully without this problem was definitely not light weight, or it would've torn with the glue/water application, and I found here that a heavy paper didn't soak up the solution enough to leave the cool lines that give the treatment it's leather-look. I'd go with medium, too. Oh, and if you're doing concrete, make sure to read the FAQ page for tips from people who've successfully applied it on concrete!
Jett says
I did mine on concrete with a 50/50 all purpose elmers glue and water and it worked out great!
Mary says
Jett, I know concrete is porous and if putting down wood flooring, you have to use a water barrier (underlayment) first. How does the finished paper floor act as far as moisture goes, etc? My concrete floor is a slab, so I'm worried about what may happen once I apply the paper treatment. Do you have any problems with it a year+ down the road?
Katrina says
Hi, I found some Kraft paper at Michaels craft store. But it has a slight texture on one side. Is this typical and if not, will it still work??
**new homeowner on a budget**
Jami says
Not sure, Katrina, without seeing it - my suggestion is always to do a test area (or on a separate piece of wood) to see what it looks like and if you like it. 🙂
JP says
It will work on either side of the paper. If you want it to be uniform you pick one side of the paper and continue to use the same side up. You will need to take a pencil and lightly make squiggly lines down the opposite (bottom) side you chose not to use. Before you start cutting or tearing your pieces roll out long sections and make the lines 3-4 inches apart or less of you make larger squiggly lines. The penciled lines will not show up through your flooring but you will be able to see what side you're working with even through the glue. This will allow you do know what side is down and what side is up!
Hope this helps!
Kelle says
Help, 5th time trying to do my counter top. Every time I add the minwax stain it leaves oil blotches all over, it looks awful. All the blogs I read say use oil stain. Yet as you say oil and paper don't mix. What in the world am I doing wrong? I will assume that the glue water mix is not forming a barrier. Should I add less water to the glue so that it makes it thicker?
A solid week of trying this to no avail, please help!!!!
Jami says
I haven't used the stain on any yet, but from what I've read, you have to embrace the blotches. I think it's not noticeable as much on floors and with a darker stain - rugs and furniture covers so much of the square footage. Sorry I can't be more help. 🙁
Joe says
Jami, My wife and I just bought a roll of Reeves builders paper from Menards that the saleman said was the "same " thing as Kraft paper. We are getting ready to try your floor idea but now we do not know if we purchased the correct paper. Please let me know if there is a difference between the two papers. Love the floor idea and would like to make it look like yours !
Thanks
JOE
Jami says
Yes, Joe, I have used builder's paper, too, but wonder if it's not consistent, since it was so different for our bedroom floor than it was for our kids floors. My advice is to to a test, either in a closet or on a piece of scrap plywood or something like that. That's about the only way to really see what it will look like - before you've lost a whole weekend to the project. 🙂
sarah Jett says
I ran into a problem of inconsistent builders paper as well! I bought my first roll and did my guest bedroom and it turned out AMAZING! Then I decided to do my master bedroom, I used the same roll as I did the guest bedroom but ran out with a 5X5 patch left. I went back to the same store bought the exact same brand of paper and finished, and the paper had dried a completely different color. I'm now stuck with the decision to try to make it work and layer more of the new stuff over my old stuff, or start completely over. I'm not sure how it will look if I completely layer over the existing brown paper floor. So my recommendation is if you know you have a large room that will take more than 1 roll, mix up the paper from the 2 rolls as you go.
Jami says
Oh thanks for taking the time to leave your tips, Sarah! That's so helpful for future projects. 🙂
Lori says
I'm in the middle of doing a floor. My problem is I could only do one side at a time and now there is a dark line down the middle of the room. Any ideas of what I can do about that? The room is my studio which is open to the public so I'd like it to look good.
Jami says
Ugh, yes, that can happen when one part dries before the other and I've no idea why. 🙁 I would add some paper randomly to try and blend the line - kinda in a zig-zag pattern. Does that make sense?
Jami @An Oregon Cottage says
Yep, Jojo- Home Depot.
JoJo says
Did you get the paper at the same place as before?
Meadowsweet Cottage says
If only I knew if my projects were going to be headaches or winners BEFORE I start them! I guess we can thank you for ironing out all the bugs so we don't have to??
Charlene says
Cheapy me didn't even want to pay full price for something as small as a can of spray paint--I used the knock-off brand, only to have it gunk up and streak and leak all over me--still had to go back and buy the brand name to finish my project, and the clean-up was twice as long and twice as hard. Not worth it for something so small.
Pura Vida - Life, on my terms says
Oh how awful!!! I got some advice one day as I was lamenting the fact that I didn't have enough of my choc brown paint left to do the bathroom. I was told to mix the few colours I had and it would turn a great shade of brown. It. Was. awful. Next time we'll pay for new paint!
banner printing says
Me too encountered a problem with my bedroom paper floor and I just share one tip. Always remember that you should repair the loose spots before installing a new floor covering.